Beautify Scenery in Bolivia

Our first night in Tupiza was a rough one for John. He was in a perputal state of the sweats all night, not to mention a cough that would make a smoker cringe. He was frustrated because he never gets sick, I felt helpless to help him, and we were both frustrated that it was taking him so long to get better. He is usually full of energy and health and he must have been feeling horrible to let it hold him back. I hit up the pharmacy to get him some relief. We kept hoping that he would get better and decided that rest was in order, so chilled for the day. Part of his sickness is that he always felt cold. Well let me tell you– especially my poor Canadians friends with their furnaces on– the Bolivian sunshine is tropical and hot and wonderful. John took full advantage as he went to the top of the hostel, laid down a blanket, and basked in the heat.

While he did this, I decided to look for Internet and a grocery store. Perhaps I was having an off day, or perhaps I was worried about John, but I couldn’t hack the language barrier. No one would let me use their Internet and I couldn’t understand why. I couldn’t find a grocery store either (now I know it’s because they don’t have them!). I staggared around the decrepit streets with my English-Spanish dictionary, unable to get anywhere, and felt on the brink of tears of frustration. It was the first time I thought, ‘What am I doing here in some crazy place most people wouldn’t dare venture to?’ Fortunately I know these feelings are normal when one travels, and that they come and go.

Thankful for a Travel Companion

I set out to find John sunbathing on the balcony and we chatted for a while and I felt a bit better. What am I going to do without him?

That evening I ventured out again and was a bit more successful. When I got back to the room, it was dark and John was miserable. Turns out that on top of his sickness, he got a terrible sunburn as well. Don’t be too hard on him. He’s used to the sun, he did put sunscreen on at one point, and he wasn’t out for long. But he was burned badly, to add to his misery. We realized after that we were 3000 meters above sea level which we didn’t know at the time. The sun beckoned him but it was deadly. It was another bad night for him, but he seemed to be a little perkier in the morning. Definitely not the mischievous, energetic John that I know, but on the mend at least. Thank goodness!

Breathtaking Scenery

Fortunately he was feeling good enough to go horseback riding, so that following afternoon we set out on the backs of horses. There was no instructions and I had to remember what to do from the one or two times I had been in my life, but it came back to me. It was an amazing experience chalk full of scenery I feel like I can only see in picture books. Our horses weren’t the most disciplined and galloped when they felt like it. It was fun, a little scary at times, and definitely tiring. It was a far cry from the over-safe horseback riding I have done in North America!

At one point we encountered a pack of wild horses, including a foal. They surrounded us and was an unforgettable moment because it felt like we were part of the pack at that point.

John's Horse Almost Threw Him

At another point, John’s horse spooked and he neighed and brayed and got up on his hind legs. I watched the whole dramatic episode from behind and was thankful he managed to hang on.

My White Horse

My horse and I seemed to have some good rapport, but the relationship ended badly. At the end of the journey, he decided to gallop home, and it was apparent that no amount of reigning him in was going to stop him. I decided to go with it, but was a bit nervous. My nerves grew worse when he appeared to be galloping right into a tree. At the last minute he swerved ever so slightly to avoid the tree, but unfortunately, my knee did not. I subsequently bashed the tree with such ferocity that I wasn’t sure if I wanted to scream or swear or cry.

It was still an incredible experience and a great day that made up for the one prior.

My New Friend